Positano is all steps. You spend the day climbing up and winding down, and by mid-morning the heat is already pressing in. We'd walked a long way up when this opened in front of us — the town spilling down the cliff to the sea, impossibly postcard-perfect. Suddenly the climb made sense. I've found the best views here are never the easy ones; they ask something of you first. You earn them with tired legs, and they pay you back in full.