The hour when the day loosens its grip. The beach below full but unhurried, umbrellas and turquoise shallows, the town climbing the hillside behind. Nobody's rushing anywhere. I've always loved this stretch of the day on the Amalfi Coast — too late for plans, too early for dinner, the light going gold and everyone simply letting the afternoon be. There's nothing to do but enjoy it. That, really, is the whole point of coming here.