Patek Philippe Calatrava • Analog:Shift

Patek Philippe has long been known for its complicated watchmaking, but following the 1929 stock market crash, fewer clients had the means to purchase these high-end timepieces. After securing a controlling interest in the firm, Jean and Charles Henri Stern created a simple watch that would be priced lower and appeal to the firm’s clientele.

Drawing on the principles espoused by the Bauhaus school and its minimalist, function-first philosophy, Patek conceived the Calatrava, taking its name from the Spanish military order established in the 12th century, which had become the symbol of Patek Philippe. Since its debut in 1932, the Calatrava has become a byword for a simple, time-only dress watch — even from brands other than Patek itself.

This particular Calatrava, a reference 5196G, is housed in a wonderfully sized 37mm white gold case with a sapphire crystal, a signed crown, a snap case back, and a polished bezel. It features a gorgeous, brushed silver dial with applied white gold indices, a matching white gold 'dauphine' handset, and a subsidiary seconds register with black painted indices and a white gold feuille seconds hand. Powered by the hand-wound Patek Philippe Calibre 215 P S, it comes paired to a signed black alligator leather strap with s signed white gold pin buckle.

Sure, you could get yourself a modern dress watch that tells the time just fine — and that probably ends up in a drawer after a while.

But a real Calatrava from the world’s greatest watchmaker is forever.